Less Common Fruits for a Home Garden

American elderberry, Sambucus canadensis (or S. nigra subspecies canadensis), is the species most commonly cultivated in Maryland. Fruits are typically used in wines, jams, jellies, and pies. The berries should be cooked prior to consumption.

This native shrub is exceptionally hardy, seldom frost-damaged, and easy to grow. Decorative flower clusters appear in early summer and purple-black berries ripen around late summer. The blooms attract pollinators, and the fruits support wildlife.

Cultivar selection and pollination

• Recommended cultivars include York, Scotia, Johns, and Adams.
• Elderberry is partially self-fruitful but produces the best harvest when cross-pollinated. Plant more than one cultivar to ensure larger yields.

Planting and plant care

• Elderberries tolerate a wide range of soil conditions, including poorly-drained soils. They grow best in full sun, but will tolerate some shade.
• Space the shrubs at least six feet apart. If growing multiple elderberries in rows, space rows 10 feet apart.
• Shallow, fibrous roots make Elderberry susceptible to drought, especially in the first year after planting. Water regularly, especially during dry periods, to ensure they get established.

Pruning

• Elderberries require yearly pruning during the dormant season for consistent yields. They fruit most heavily on second-year stems (canes). Maintain a balance of canes 1-3 years of age. Remove third-year canes during the following dormant pruning. This will stimulate a new generation of first-year canes when growth resumes in spring.
• Regular removal of diseased or insect-infested canes will help ensure a long-lived, productive planting.

Harvesting

• Plants typically start to produce fruit in the second or third year after planting.
• Harvest is usually between mid-August and mid-September, depending on cultivar and location.
• Berries are best cut from the stem as a cluster and then hand-stripped.

Pest problems

• Birds are a serious pest in elderberry plantings. Make plans to cover the plants with insect netting or tight-mesh bird netting that won’t entangle birds.

Additional resources

Elderberry | West Virginia Extension

Elderberry in the Garden and the Kitchen | Penn State Extension

Pawpaw (Asimina triloba) is a 15 to 25-foot-tall native woodland tree with large leaves that turn yellow in autumn. Burgundy bell-shaped flowers open in spring and are insect-pollinated, and large fruits support wildlife. Pawpaw is the only host plant (caterpillar food) for zebra swallowtail butterflies.

Cultivar selection and pollination

• Pawpaw is not self-pollinating. While each flower has both female and male parts, they are fertile at different times.
• When selecting trees, purchase at least two, either seed-grown or different cultivars. Cultivars will be grafted, and they produce the best fruit quality with more reliable traits, such as larger size, minimal seeds, and good flavor.
• Cultivars are not yet as widely available as the species, so may be harder to source.

Planting and plant care

• Pawpaw grows best in well-drained soil with a soil acidity (pH) in the 5.5-7.0 range.
• Pawpaw grows wild as an understory tree in our area, though orchardists grow them in full sun. They require well-drained soil, but prefer consistent moisture during drought.
• Grafted plants can be transplanted into a full sun location. Plants grown on their own roots (not grafted) need shade to get established. Nursery-grown plants sold in containers have a much higher survival rate than those shipped bare-root.
• For the best cross-pollination, plant trees no more than 30 feet apart. It can take several years for the trees to begin bearing fruit.

Pruning

• Pawpaw does not need routine pruning outside of typical tree care (e.g., removing crossing branches, pruning out storm damage).
• Suckers are sprouts arising from the root system that can mature into additional trunks. They are part of the normal growth habit for pawpaw, and may appear several feet from the original trunk as the tree matures. Unwanted suckers can be trimmed off at ground level while they are still small.

Harvesting and storage

• Aromatic green- or yellow-skinned fruits ripen late summer through early autumn. In Maryland, peak season is around mid-September. The flavor is a combination of banana, mango, and pineapple.
• It is normal for ripe pawpaw fruits to be quite soft when ready for harvest. If picked slightly under-ripe, they should finish ripening off the tree, but if picked too early and firm, they will not.
• Fruits do not store long; they are very perishable and easily bruised. At peak ripeness, a fruit kept at room temperature may only last a couple of days. Refrigerated almost-ripe fruits might keep for 2 to 3 weeks (1 week for fully-ripe fruits).

Pest problems

• Deer avoid browsing pawpaw foliage, but bucks may rub antlers on trunks, potentially causing serious bark injury if trees are unprotected. Various wild animals will eat fallen fruits.
• Few insects feed on pawpaw foliage, and they do not cause enough damage to warrant treatment.

Additional resources

Pawpaw | Kentucky State University

Pawpaw | Clemson Extension

Judd, Michael. For the Love of Pawpaws, A Mini Manual for Growing and Caring for Pawpaws - From Seed to Table. Michael Judd, 2019.

Species in the genus Amelanchier are known by various common names, including shadbush, shadblow, juneberry, saskatoon, and serviceberry. Those that produce the best fruit quality for people are saskatoon or dwarf shadbush (Amelanchier alnifolia), which is native throughout the western U.S., and coastal serviceberry (Amelanchier obovalis), which is locally native. Several other native Amelanchier species occur in Maryland.

Cultivar selection and pollination

• Numerous cultivars exist among serviceberry species and hybrids. University of Wisconsin Extension provides an overview of options among several species.
• Flowers are insect-pollinated, and one plant is capable of fruiting by itself.

Planting and plant care

• Adaptable plants, serviceberries grow well in sun to semi-shade and well-drained soil; some will tolerate wetter conditions. Soil acidity can range from mildly acidic to neutral. The best flowering and fruit production will occur in full sun. Learn more about serviceberry cultivation as a recommended native plant.

Pruning

• Serviceberry does not need routine pruning outside of typical tree care (removing crossing branches, pruning out storm damage, etc.).
• Suckers are sprouts arising from the root system that can mature into additional trunks. They are part of the normal growth habit for serviceberry, and may appear a short distance from the original trunk as the tree matures. Unwanted suckers can be trimmed off at ground level while they are still small. Nurseries can offer (and gardeners can maintain) serviceberry as either single-trunked trees or multi-trunked shrubs/trees.

Harvesting

• Berries turn rosy-red and then dark reddish- or bluish-purple as they ripen, and are about the size of a blueberry.
• Fruits ripen in early summer.

Plant and pest problems

• Rust is a common fungal disease affecting fruits and occasionally leaves and twigs. Planting serviceberry near Eastern redcedar (Juniperus virginiana, a native juniper) can increase the risk of contracting a rust infection.
• Deer may occasionally browse serviceberry foliage, but bucks could rub antlers on trunks, potentially causing serious bark injury if trees are unprotected. Many species of birds will eagerly eat ripe or nearly-ripe fruits.
• A few insects feed on serviceberry foliage, but they do not cause enough damage to warrant treatment.

Additional resources

Amelanchier obovalis | NC State University

Serviceberry in the Garden and in the Kitchen | Penn State Extension

Black Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa) is an adaptable native shrub, grown principally for its showy blooms and autumn leaf color, flower resources for pollinators, and fruits for wildlife. The blueberry-sized berries are high in antioxidants and astringent. They can be made into juices, jams, jellies, salsas and sauces, and wine.

Cultivar selection and pollination

• A few cultivars exist for black chokeberry, either as dwarf forms (for aesthetics) or berry production (such as higher vitamin and antioxidant content).
• Chokeberry is self-fruitful, but should fruit best when cross-pollinated by a different cultivar or a second plant of the same species.
• Blooms are insect-pollinated and support a variety of species.

Planting and plant care

• Very adaptable to sun and soil conditions, chokeberry grows fullest and produces the highest yield in full sun. Shrubs are tolerant of drought as well as damp soil. Soil acidity can range from acidic (ideal) to slightly alkaline.
• Mature size, and therefore plant spacing, will vary to some extent depending on the cultivar. Dwarf forms mature shorter or grow more slowly, but overall may eventually spread in width about the same degree as non-dwarf cultivars.

Pruning

• Chokeberry will probably not need routine pruning outside of typical shrub care, such as thinning-out crowded branches. Once plants are mature, the annual removal of older wood (stems several years old) will encourage the growth of replacement stems that will bear more fruit
• Suckers are sprouts arising from the root system that can mature into additional stems. They are part of the normal growth habit for chokeberry, and may appear a foot or more from the original clump as the shrub matures. Unwanted suckers can be trimmed off at ground level while they are still small, but some will need to be left as eventual replacements for older stems that decline in productivity and are removed.

Harvesting

• Fruits ripen in late summer, generally in August. They will turn reddish before ripening purplish-black.
• Sugar content determines when to pick the fruits. Taste-test a few before harvesting, and pick fruits before they begin to wrinkle/shrivel.

Plant and pest problems

• Learn about occasional insect pest and disease issues in the alternative crop web page for Aronia. While intended for a commercial (farmer) audience, this resource provides information about potential challenges that may need monitoring.
• Deer, rabbits, and birds might browse plants or consume berries. Consider using netting or mesh to cover plants to prevent damage.

Additional resources

Aronia | Iowa State University

Currants, gooseberries, and jostaberries are all members of the genus Ribes. Currants generally can be categorized into red, black, and white groups. Gooseberries are categorized as American or European. Jostaberry is a hybrid between black currant and gooseberries.

These shrubs reach a height of 3 to 6 feet when mature, and may have thorny stems. Although seldom eaten fresh due to their tart flavor, currant fruits make excellent jams and jellies. They are not commonly grown in central Maryland due to a limited tolerance for high summer heat (daytime and overnight temperatures), though well-established plants can potentially fruit for 10 to 15 years or more.

Selection and pollination

• European gooseberry cultivars produce large, high-quality fruit. European-American hybrids offer good flavor as well as disease (powdery mildew) resistance. One gooseberry cultivar that may be relatively easy to find is ‘Hinnomaki Red’.
• Jostaberry is vigorous, hardy, and thornless, growing to 5 feet in height and producing large fruit with mild, black currant flavor.
• Red currants and gooseberries are self-fruitful, but will produce more and larger fruit where more than one cultivar provides cross-pollination. Recommended red currant cultivars include ‘Rovada’ and ‘Jonkheer van Tets’.
• Some black currants are self-sterile and require another cultivar for fruit production.

Planting and plant care

• Currant, gooseberry, and jostaberry grow best in locations with late afternoon shade to reduce summer heat stress on the plants.
• Cultivars vary in mature size, which impacts the spacing needed between plants.
• In fall or early spring, plant well-rooted 1- or 2-year-old dormant plants. Set plants two inches deeper than they were grown in the nursery. Prune back canes so that only 4-6 buds remain.
• Remove blooms in the first year to encourage plant establishment.

Pruning

• Prune in early spring, just before new growth emerges.
• Red currants and gooseberries produce fruit at the base of 1-year-old wood. The greatest fruit production is on spurs of 2- and 3-year-old wood. Therefore, regularly remove 4-year wood and choose the best 1-year wood as replacement canes.
• Black currants produce best on 1-year-old wood. Strong first-year shoots combined with 2- and 3-year-old wood will provide the heaviest yields. 
• Jostaberry fruits most heavily on 2-4 year-old branches. Older branches are removed close to the ground to encourage new shoots.

Harvesting

• Currants and gooseberries ripen in early to midsummer (around June and July). Pick them when fully colored, slightly soft, and juicy.
• Currants intended for preserves can be picked when still firm so they contain more pectin. Neither currant or gooseberry fruits will ripen further after picking.

Plant and pest problems

• The non-native fungus White Pine Blister Rust is an important disease of Ribes, though jostaberry cultivars and some currant or gooseberry cultivars are reportedly resistant:
  • Michigan Department of Agriculture & Rural Development – resistant cultivar list
  • University of Massachusetts Extension – Currants and Gooseberries
• The precise level of resistance, or how it may vary between cultivars, is unknown with respect to a specific strain of this rust found in New England. For example, it has overcome some "resistant" black currant cultivars.
  • (PDF) White Pine Blister Rust: A New Strain Has Developed – 2013 article by the University of Massachusetts Extension Plant Diagnostic Laboratory

Additional resources

Growing and Using Blackcurrants | Maryland Grows Blog

(PDF) Currant and Gooseberry Variety Review | Cornell Cooperative Extension

Home Fruit Plantings: Gooseberry and Currant Variety Selection | Penn State Extension

Hardy kiwi (Actinidia arguta), is a large-statured twining vine originating in Eastern Asia. Fruits are about the size of a grape and have a hairless, edible green skin, unlike the fuzzy, golden, larger fruits more familiar from supermarkets (Actinidia deliciosa).

Note: Hardy kiwi has the potential to escape cultivation and invade natural areas. While not yet documented in Maryland's natural areas, it has been reported to be spreading in a portion of New England.

• Invasive Hardy Kiwi: An Emerging Invasive in the Northeastern United States | Northeastern IPM Center
• Exploring the Invasiveness Potential of Kiwiberry | University of Minnesota

Selection and pollination

• Flowers are usually dioecious, meaning that blooms are functionally either male or female, and occur on different plants. Occasionally, the same plant can produce both flower types, or even change from one to the other in different years. Usually, a garden will need one female vine to fruit and one male vine to pollinate it, or one self-fruitful cultivar. (One male vine will pollinate at least 5 female vines.)
• Blooms are somewhat wind-pollinated but are primarily insect-pollinated (bees).
• Cultivar ‘Issai’ is a self-fruitful female selection, so does not require a pollinator, though using one may improve yield. This cultivar is reportedly less vigorous, but that may be a benefit for gardeners with limited space.

Planting and plant care

• Hardy kiwi vines grow rampantly and require sturdy support. If you are growing more than one vine, plant them at least 10 to 15 feet apart.
• Select a site in full sun with good drainage—they will not tolerate waterlogged soil. The soil pH should be slightly acidic.
• Not reliably winter-hardy in containers, especially if roots freeze.

Pruning

• In orchards, hardy kiwi vines are trained and pruned somewhat similarly to grapes. In home gardens, they could be grown informally over a very sturdy arbor or pergola, though crowding may affect yield.
• A large proportion of young growth is removed each year since growth is so rampant. One-year-old canes (stems) arising from cordons (the permanent horizontal branches) are kept about 8 to 12 inches apart, so crowded canes between them can be thinned out during dormant pruning in late winter.

Harvesting

• Plants may not bear fruit until they are at least 3 to 5 years old, though 5 to 9 years old is possible.
• Ripe fruits do not necessarily change color and have a green or greenish-yellow skin (or rose-blushed if exposed to direct sun). Under-ripe fruits will be more tart (acidic), but ripe fruits should be sweet and juicy, with a mix of fruit flavors (including pineapple and fuzzy kiwi).
• Fruits may ripen unevenly, with some individuals in a cluster being ready for picking before others (this occurs with ‘Issai’).
• Fruits generally ripen around September. If picked partially ripe and stored chilled (for up to 2 months), they can finish ripening after warming up. Otherwise, they do not have a long shelf life.

Plant and pest problems

• An early break in dormancy during mild temperatures in late winter can make flower buds very vulnerable to low temperatures (30℉ or below). Flowers damaged by frost will not fruit.
• Planting in heavy, wet clay soil risks root rot from Phytophthora. Sites with a history of root knot nematode infestation and Verticillium wilt in other edible plants should also be avoided. Hardy kiwi is also vulnerable to Botrytis and Sclerotinia blight.
• Sensitive to over-fertilization, which can injure roots and cause canopy dieback.
• There are no major insect pests of hardy kiwi, though mild damage from spider mites, thrips, and Japanese beetles is possible.

Additional resources

(PDF) Hardy kiwi (Actinidia arguta, Actinidia kolomikta) | Cornell

Kiwifruit and Hardy Kiwi (Kiwiberries) | Ohio State University Extension

Hardy Kiwi | Baltimore County Master Gardener newsletter, March 2023

Fruit Production for the Home Gardener (chapter 12 - hardy kiwi) | Penn State

Asian persimmon (Diospyros kaki) may be more familiar than our native American persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) due to its availability in grocery stores, though farmer’s markets may offer both types. In general, the fruit of the Asian species is firmer in texture when harvested, and there are a range of cultivars. Fruits can be eaten fresh, dried, frozen, or cooked.

Compared to American persimmon, Asian persimmon is less cold-hardy, though in Maryland, both species are close to the northern limits of their winter hardiness. Piedmont and coastal plain areas of Maryland are more suitable for Asian persimmon cultivation than the mountain counties. American persimmon occurs nearly state-wide but is still rarer in our westernmost regions.

Selection and pollination

• Asian persimmon cultivars are often grafted onto American persimmon rootstock for increased tree vigor and disease resistance. It is normal for native persimmon roots to be black in color, which may be mistaken for rooted or dead roots. In general, the fruits of Asian persimmon cultivars can be conical (acorn-shaped) or flattened (tomato-shaped) when ripe. They can be rounded or lobed (like the lobes on a bell pepper, giving fruit a squared-off shape). Some are astringent (high in tannins) until fully ripe, while others are non-astringent, even when picked still firm.
• As a group, non-astringent persimmon varieties are considered less cold-hardy than astringent varieties. The Korean cultivar ‘Gwang Yang’ is one of the most cold-hardy non-astringent selections which has been grown successfully in Maryland orchards. There are several strains of the popular non-astringent variety ‘Fuyu’ that are widely available, which has a more average hardiness tolerating temperatures down to 0℉, below which can prevent fruiting. (“Fuyu” means “winter” in Japanese.)
• Persimmons are usually dioecious – male and female flowers are produced on separate plants. Sometimes, they may be monoecious, where both sexes of flower occur on the same tree and self-pollination can occur. More rarely, bisexual flowers (having both male and female parts) may occur, generally on male-flowered trees. As an added complication, occasionally a tree can produce flowers of the opposite sex.
  • Female Asian persimmon cultivars tend to be self-fruitful, not requiring pollination. If they are pollinated, fruits will have seeds; if not pollinated, fruits are seedless.
  • Pollination might affect the flavor and texture of ripe fruits, both of astringent and non-astringent types. This can be indicated in a cultivar description by the term “pollination variant.” (When it doesn’t have an effect, it is “pollination constant.”) For example, a cultivar designation of PVNA means pollination-variant non-astringent. That variety would be non-astringent only if pollinated, and astringent until ripe if not pollinated.
• Blooms form on the current year’s growth (new wood) around May or June, and are insect-pollinated (bees).
• A few cultivars exist that are hybrids between Asian and American persimmon species.

Some of the most cold-tolerant selections among 84 cultivars tested, based on 20 to 30-year trials at UMD demonstration plots (Queen Anne’s County and Washington County, beginning in 1966) are listed in the table below.

Planting and plant care

• Choose a location in full sun with good drainage. Asian persimmon matures larger than most fruit trees that are grown on dwarfing rootstocks; mature size may be 20 to 30 feet high, though could be more compact.
• Choose a location sheltered from early spring frosts, or which does not warm-up too rapidly that could encourage trees to leaf-out early. Once buds break dormancy in a mild spell, they can be killed by a hard freeze, causing a crop loss for that year or significant canopy dieback.
• If growing multiple trees in rows, space trees about 20 feet apart, and rows about 15 feet apart.
• Established trees are drought-resistant, but should be carefully monitored for irrigation needs during the first year after planting.
• Thin heavy yields to avoid broken branches. Overbearing can also trigger trees to bear only biennially or to develop smaller fruits. Overbearing can occur on self-fruitful cultivars that have been pollinated.

Pruning

• Prune to a modified-leader (main trunk is grown at an angle or pruned to reduce its dominance) or open-center style. Shorten long, lanky branches so they can better support the weight of fruit.

Harvesting

• Pick ripe fruit by clipping its stem, since it might not fall off readily unless it is so ripe it’s soft. Non-astringent fruit can be picked once it has fully colored.
• It is not necessary to wait until after a frost to harvest, and a hard freeze can halt ripening. If picked slightly under-ripe, fruits should finish ripening in several days at room temperature, especially if bagged with a ripe apple or banana.
• Non-astringent varieties can be eaten when still crisp/firm, but astringent varieties need to be fully ripe and soft before consumption. A few varieties can vary in astringency depending on whether they were pollinated; seedless (unpollinated) fruits will be astringent until ripe and seeded (pollinated) fruits will be non-astringent.
• Harvested fruits should store for about two months if kept cold.

Plant and pest problems

• Premature fruit drop can occur due to parthenocarpy (forming fruits without pollination). It is also typical for over half the young fruits to shed while they are still developing, especially if the tree is in semi-shade or growing too vigorously from abundant leaf growth or excessive fertilization.
• Suckers (root sprouts) may arise from American persimmon rootstock used for grafted Asian persimmons. They can be trimmed off as they appear.
• Japanese beetles can feed on foliage, but seldom cause enough damage to warrant intervention.
• Persimmon psyllid can cause leaf distortion when populations are high, but natural predators usually suppress outbreaks on their own, and use of an insecticide is usually not necessary.
• Wintery injury from cold temperatures is the most likely cause of branch dieback, though occasionally twig-girdling beetle larvae can kill small-diameter stems and cause them to fall off.
• Anthracnose (Colletotrichum) and other fungal leaf spot diseases may occur in years with wet springs, though susceptibility can vary between cultivars. Despite this, use of a fungicide is usually not necessary.

Additional resources

Persimmons, A Colorful Fruit of the Late Autumn | University of California

Introducing the King of Fall Fruits: Persimmons! | Maryland Grows Blog

Persimmons and Other Unusual Fall Fruits with Stanton Gill | GardenDC podcast, episode 82

References

Table data from Shanks, James B., et. al. (date unknown) Persimmons for Maryland: An Alternative Crop or Home Fruit. Horticultural Research Bulletin 1 (HRB1), Department of Natural Resource Sciences and Landscape Architecture, University of Maryland, College Park.

Reich, Lee. (2004). Uncommon Fruits for Every Garden. Timber Press